Cool Sheeping in 2018

Folks, my stash (of yarn) is starting to take on a life of its own. A year ago my stash fit in one seven-foot bookcase. Right now it takes up the seven-foot bookcase, half of a six-foot bookcase, a good-sized box, and two of those giant Ziploc bags.  

[pics of stash room coming]

I have sweater quantities in 14 different yarns.  I have blanket quantities of acrylic. I have enough Into the Whirled hand painted yarn to last a lifetime (it takes up its own shelf in the bookcase).  I don't think I've hit SABLE overall, but I've definitely got enough to last several years.

I'm looking to stop or at least slow the growth of my stash. What I really need to do is "cold sheep".  This is term that means to completely stop buying yarn, usually for a predetermined period of time. I don't think I have it in me to adhere to such a strict standard, but I think I can stay within the spirit of the concept with a few exceptions.  I'm going to call it "cool sheeping" because it's not quite "cold."  

So, I hereby pledge to "cool sheep" for 2018.  I will knit and crochet only from stash with the following exceptions:

1. I can buy yarn that is more than 50% man-made fibers (acrylic, nylon) but only for a specific purpose and only after trying to find something that will work in stash.
2. I can buy yarn with gift certificates given to me by other people.
3. If there's a Stephen West or other KAL that I really, REALLY want to join, and after trying really, REALLY hard I can't find anything to work in my stash, I can buy ONE kit.
4. I can buy up to a total of 6 skeins at fiber festivals (MDSW and Rhinebeck).  That's 6 skeins total, not 6 skeins per festival.

Guidelines I will follow:

1. I will try to find patterns to fit the stash, rather than stash to fit patterns.
2. I will get the number of projects on my needles down to 5 and then keep it there - the longer I'm busy with already-started projects, the less I'll be looking to buy yarn for additional projects.

To make things even more interesting, how about a points system?

• +10 points for each 100g used.
• +1 bonus point for each year the yarn has been in stash (e.g., yarn that has been in stash for three-and-a-half years would earn +3 bonus points).
• -10 points for each 100g purchased (even if purchased within the above exceptions).
• -5 extra points for each 100g purchased if the yarn was outside of the above exceptions.

My goal is to be at or above zero at the end of the year.

I'll try to remember to check in periodically and update my progress.  Wish me luck!

My Puffy Recipe (Updated 7/24/12)

Updated 7/24/12 to include clearer directions for the decreases.

Here's my personal hexipuff recipe.  I consider this to be "the perfect puff."

What's a hexipuff?  It's a motif used in making The Beekeeper's Quilt.  There are a series of posts on my blog about adjusting the pattern to make hexipuffs of the same size from all different types of yarn.  These are modifications - you'll still need to buy a copy of the official pattern to make the quilt.

I use 3.25mm needles (instead of the 3.50mm specified in the pattern) because I like the look better.  This makes a 3" puff with a sock yarn of average fingering weight.

This recipe has been tested and works for:
Skinny Bugga! (formerly from the Sanguine Gryphon and now Cephalopod Yarns)
Gnomespun Yarn Phouka
Knit Picks Palette
The Sanguine Gryphon Little Traveller
Zwerger Garn Opal Regenwald
Update 7/24/12: Into the Whirled Ulundi Sock


Abbreviations
M1T: make one towards. Make a right-leaning half hitch, with the yarn tail coming out of the front (just as you would cast on a stitch during a backward loop cast-on).
  This is also known as m1R (make one right) by some knitters.
M1A: make one away. Make a left-leaning half hitch, with the yarn tail coming out of the back.  This is also known as m1L (make one left) by some knitters.
ssk: slip the next stitch knitwise, slip the following stitch knitwise, knit these two stitches together through their back loops.
k2tog: knit the next two stitches together as one.


Here's how you do it...


Using the long tail cast on, cast on 22 stitches, alternating between front and back needles. 


Start your first round by knitting into the last stitch cast on. Knit the rest of the round.

INCREASES
Increase Round A: Knit 1, M1T, knit to 1 stitch before end of first needle, M1A, knit 1. Repeat on second needle.

Increase Round B: Knit 1, knit 1 through the back loop, knit to end of first needle. Repeat on second needle. 


Repeat Increase Rounds A & B again (30 stitches total).

Knit one round.

Repeat Increase Rounds A & B three more times (42 stitches total).

DECREASES
Decrease as described in the pattern, but add an extra plain knit row after you have decreased 3 times (when you have 30 stitches total), to mirror the bottom of the puff.  Continue to decrease as described in the pattern, but omit the final knit row.  See more specific instructions below.


Decrease Round A: ssk, knit to 2 stitches before end of first needle, k2tog.  Repeat on second needle.

Decrease Round B: knit all stitches.

Repeat Decrease Rounds A & B  twice more (30 stitches total)

Knit one round.

Repeat Decrease Rounds A & B once more. (26 stitches total)

Repeat Decrease Round A only once more.

FINISHING
Stuff your puff.

Bind off in purl using a crochet three-needle bind off as follows: purl first stitch from the front & back needles together using a crochet hook. Repeat for second stitch. Pull loop from second stitch through loop from first stitch using crochet hook.  One stitch from each needle bound off.

Repeat until 2 stitches remain on each needle. Purl these 4 stitches together as one, and pull that loop through the loop from the previous stitch to complete the bind off.  Break yarn, pull tail through remaining loop.  Use the crochet hook to tuck the tail inside the puff.

Ta-da!  Puff perfection!

Time Traveler Socks - NOW IN FOUR SIZES!

My Time Traveler Socks are now available in four sizes!  Women's medium (8" foot circumference), men's medium/women's large (9" foot circumference), men's large (10" foot circumference), and men's XXL (11" foot circumference).  Of course, the foot length is still 100% adjustable.  The new PDF even includes a chart for the ribbing!

Download the PDF from Ravelry HERE!

Knitting these socks? Create a project on Ravelry!

Hitchhiking on the Bandwagon

Last year, I was able to purchase an amazing skein of Bugga! from the Sanguine Gryphon booth at Maryland Sheep & Wool.  The colorway was called Prostetnic Vogon Jeltz, and it's a beautiful blue-green-grey variegated.

Prostetnic Vogon Jeltz (the yarn version)

Top View

My immediate thought was that it needed to be involved in some kind of Douglas Adams-related pattern, of course.  Careful searching revealed that 6,000 people enjoyed a beautiful shawlette pattern called Hitchhiker, which (when knitted with the correct amount of yarn) has 42 points along the edge.  It was fate! Kismet! The perfect match of squishy soft yarn, squishy soft garter stitch, Douglas Adams -themed yarn and Douglas Adams - themed pattern.

I started the shawlette, but tried to get all fancy by adding a stripe of stockinette every now and then, to show off the amazing colors of the yarn.
This resulted in so much frustration I eventually frogged the whole thing.


But I kept obsessing.  The pattern just kept calling to me - calling for THIS YARN.  So today I started again, without getting fancy, but of course with some modifications.  This is me we're talking about, here.

Since the pattern calls for 150g of Wollmeise (575 yards) to get 42 teeth, and Bugga! has only 412, I knew I'd have to get creative to get the magic number.

So, I've gone up a couple of needle sizes (to a US 4, 3.50mm) to create a less dense fabric.  And, more importantly, I've shortened the pattern repeat by two rows.  Given my larger needle size, this is actually resulting in teeth that are about the same length as their height.

This pattern starts so quickly at first!  It's the first day, and already I've knit 20 teeth.  I think that counts as 50% done, don't you?  Yep, definitely.

Hexipuffs - Worsted & Bulky Weight

If you're not knitting The Beekeeper's Quilt yet, you probably will be soon.  This is a pattern that's sucking 'em in left and right, and for good reason!  It's a fun way to use up your scraps and creates the cutest little finished object with each motif.

The pattern is written for sock yarn, but what if you want to use up those worsted and bulky weight yarn scraps you've got lying around?  Face it, we've all got some Vanna's Choice we bought when we starting knitting that really shouldn't be used for anything else.The solution, of course is to PUFF ALL THE SCRAPS!  Even the worsted weight ones.

Therefore, after much trial and error, here is the recipe I have come up with.   This creates a puff that is 3" in diameter (1.5" on each side).  That's the same size I get knitting my sock yarn puffs on US size 3 (3.25mm) needles.

I recommend using the type of increases described in My Puffy Recipe (M1T and M1A) instead of the kfb used in the official pattern.  Kfb tends to result in a puff that's shorter on the bottom than it is on the top.

Aran or Lighter Bulky Weight Yarn
Cast on 14 stitches total (7 stitches per needle) on US size 8 (5.0mm) needles 
Increase per pattern until you have 26 stitches total (13 stitches per needle)
Decrease per pattern until 14 stitches total (7 stitches per needle) remain 
Use bind-off described in pattern

Worsted Weight Yarn
As described above, but cast on 16 stitches (8 stitches per needle) and increase to 32 stitches (16 stitches per needle).

New Pattern in the Works!

You guys!  You guys!  I am so excited.  I have just designed my first pair of lace socks.  There are charts and everything.  I'm hoping to put it through test knitting and have it available by the end of July.

And the best part?  It uses Bugga! (The name actually includes the exclamation point at the end.  I'm also really excited, but that's just a happy coincidence.)  The inspiration for these socks came not just from any Bugga!,  but from one of the limited edition nudibranch colorways that Sanguine Gryphon did just before it went extinct in December, 2011.  Specifically, the Easton studio version of Dermatobranchus Ornatus.  It's a beautiful tan/pink variegated yarn with a low amount of contrast.  It's dark now, but I'll take some pictures in the sunlight tomorrow.

Even though the Sanguine Gryphon is now DOA, don't fret! You can still buy Bugga! in a very large array of colors from the companies that came out of the Sanguine Gryphon split: The Verdant Gryphon and Cephalopod Yarns.

This color just looked at me and begged to be a nice pair of snug, cuddly lace socks.  I hope you'll have as much fun knitting them as I'm having designing them!

TTFN (ta ta for now)!

Sock Knitting: It Ain't Rocket Surgery

What's rocket surgery?  It's just a phrase my family uses to mean something brainy and complicated.  We make a lot of verbal whoopsies in my clan, including frequent blending of metaphors and reversing of words in sentences.  This came about when one of us couldn't decide if something "wasn't rocket science" or "wasn't brain surgery."  Meaning that you don't need an IQ of 160 to figure it out.

Socks are like that, although I didn't think so at first, and I know many other people feel the same way.  I thought I would share my sock knitting light-bulb moment.

I'm working on knitting my seventh pair of socks right now, and my third pair of Yarnissima socks.  Let me start out by saying that I love Yarnissima, a.k.a. Marjan Hammink.  Her designs are creative and unique, and typically well-written - especially considering the fact that English is not her first language.

In fact, the first pair of socks I ever knit was her design, KawKawEsque.  I wanted something ribbed that would provide a snug fit, but didn't want to get bored knitting vanilla socks.  Also, since I had no idea what I was doing, I was afraid of using a "recipe."  I needed someone to lay out all the steps for me, and I felt that this pattern did it nicely.

However, that pattern made knitting socks seem much more complicated than it really is.  Was all the knitting through the back loop important to the structure of the sock, or does she just like the way it looks?  Do I have to do short rows to make a heel? What is going on with this gusset thing?  Why am I constantly shifting stitches between needles?  I didn't know what was necessary to the creation of a sock and what was a creative part of an original pattern.

Then I saw people knitting socks without a pattern, like my friend Malia, and I was blown away.  I didn't understand how someone could knit a sock without constantly referring to a written set of directions.  They are so complicated!  WHAT ARE YOU DOING YOU'RE GOING TO DIE AAAAAUUUUGGHHH!!!11!!!1!

It wasn't until I knit my husband a pair of socks using Sherry Menton's fantastic Elementary Watson Socks pattern that I really and truly "got it."  That pattern and its introduction to the Fleegle heel  really made a light bulb go on in my head.  In truth, a sock is just two tubes of varying width connected by a corner.  Everything else is just decoration.

Once I realized that, I was able to calm down and enjoy my sock knitting.  I can now buy a pattern like Spina di Pesce and say, "Provisional cast-on and anatomical toe?  I don't feel like it.  Substitute Judy's Magic Cast-On and standard toe increases." I can decide whether I want to cable the gusset.  I can use a  Fleegle heel instead of short rows if I feel like it.

It's a sock, not rocket surgery.  My take-away, after my extensive experience knitting 6.25 pairs of socks, is this: If you want to learn a new technique, or get fancy, do it!  Complex socks have their time and place, and they help you grow as a knitter.  But if you're not in the mood, mix and match toes and heels and gussets and foot patterns in a way that's comfortable for you.  Relax and knit something gorgeous and cozy.

Off to finish my Spina di Pesce. Happy sock knitting!

Time Traveler Socks

MAJOR UPDATE! 

These socks are now available in FOUR sizes (8", 9", 10" and 11" foot circumference)!  Check out the Ravelry pattern page to get a PDF copy of the pattern, which includes instructions for all 4 sizes PLUS charts for the ribbing for each size, or download now by clicking here!

Here is the toe-up pattern I used for my dad's socks.  He wears a size 10.5 narrow.  The ribbing provides a nice, snug fit, and that the Fleegle heel hugs a narrow heel.  This pattern was written for magic loop, but you can use DPNs if you prefer.  Needle 1 refers to the top of the foot/front of the leg needle, needle 2 refers to the sole/back of the leg needle.


The foot length is adjustable for any size.

Materials:
KnitPicks Felici Fingering in Time Traveler, 2 balls (436 yds), or any fingering weight superwash merino/nylon sock yarn
US size 0 (2.0mm) circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge. 32" or longer for magic loop, or two circulars or DPNs if you prefer
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle


Gauge:
9 sts and 12 rows = 1" in stockinette stitch


Size:
9" foot circumference.  Foot length is adjustable.

Abbreviations:
m1R: lift strand between stitch just worked and next stitch onto left-hand needle from the back, k through the front loop.
m1L: lift strand between stitch just worked and next stitch onto left-hand needle from the front, k through the back loop.
ssk: slip the first stitch on the left-hand needle knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise, place both stitches back onto the left-hand needle and knit together through the back loop.
k2tog: knit the next two stitches together as one.
p2togtbl: purl the next two stitches together through the back loops.
pm: place marker
sm: slip marker
k: knit
p: purl
sl: slip the next stitch from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle.  Slip knitwise on right-side rows and purlwise on wrong-side rows.

Toe:
Cast on 20 stitches (10 sts per needle) using Judy's Magic Cast On.
First round: K across needle 1.  On needle 2: k5, pm, k5.  This marker will mark the sole needle and provide the starting place for the heel.

Next round: k1, m1R, k to 1 st before end of needle 1, m1L, k1.  Repeat for needle 2.
Next round: k all sts.

Repeat these two rounds until you have 80 sts (40 sts per needle).

Foot:
All rounds: *p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k4; repeat from * to last st on needle 1, p1.  K across needle 2.

Continue until work measures 3.75" less than desired foot length.

Gusset:
Next round: Continue on needle 1 in established pattern.  On needle 2, m1R, pm, k to end of needle 2, pm, m1L.

Next round: Continue on needle 1 in established pattern.  K all sts on needle 2.
Next round: Continue on needle 1 in established pattern.  On needle 2, k to first marker, m1R, sm, k to last marker, sm, m1L, k to end of needle. 

Repeat these two rounds until you have increased 19 sts on each side of needle 2 (40 sts on needle 1 and 78 sts on needle 2).  Please note, the increases go outside the markers.  There should always be 40 sts between the first and last markers on needle 2.  If you have a larger foot, please increase more stitches in the gusset, then remember to decrease them all away during the heel turn.

Heel:
Next row: Continue on needle 1 in established pattern.  On needle 2, k to 2 sts past center marker, k2tog, k1, turn.  (The markers used for the gusset increases can now be removed, if you like.)

Next row: sl1, p to 2 sts past center marker, p2togtbl, p1, turn.

Next row: sl1, k to 1 st before the gap, k2tog, k1, turn.
Next row: sl1, p to 1 st before the gap, p2togtbl, p1, turn.

Repeat these two rows until 2 sts remain after the gaps on each side of needle 2.

Next row: sl1, k to 1 st before gap, k2tog, k to end of needle 2. Do not turn.
Next round: Continue across needle 1 in established pattern. On needle 2: k1, ssk, k to end of needle.
Next round: Continue across needle 1 in established pattern.  On needle 2: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next round: Continue across needle 1 in established pattern.  On needle 2: k18, ssk, k2tog, k to end of needle.

Leg:
Continue across needle 1 in established pattern.  On needle 2: *k4, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1; rep from * once more, k4, p1, k2, p1, k4.  (This round is the start of the leg.)

Repeat this round until work measures 5" from start of leg, or 1" shorter than desired length.

Cuff:
Next round: *p1, k1; repeat from * around.

Repeat this round until cuff measures 1".

Finishing:
Bind off all sts loosely using Elizabeth Zimmerman's sewn bind-off.

Weave all ends in securely, wash and block.

Repeat for second sock, matching stripe pattern if desired.


Find it here on Ravelry!

Hexipuffs: Skinny Bugga!

Here are the modifications for making a Beekeeper's Quilt hexipuff with Skinny Bugga!  This yarn was originally made by Sanguine Gryphon, but is now sold by its offshoot company Cephalopod Yarns.  It's a fingering weight merino/cashmere/nylon (80/10/10).

This results in a 3" diameter puff.

Cast on 11 stitches per needle (22 stitches total) on US size 3 (3.25mm) needles.  
Increase per pattern to 21 stitches per needle. 
Add one extra row of plain knitting after the 2nd increase and again after the 3rd decrease (when there are 15 stitches per needle).  
Decrease per pattern to 11 stitches per needle.
Bind off as per pattern.

Hexipuffs: Koigu Kersti Merino Crepe

Here is the recipe I used to make a hexipuff out of Koigu Kersti Merino Crepe.  This yarn is a light worsted weight, more like a DK. 


What's a hexipuff?  It's a motif used in making The Beekeeper's Quilt.  The pattern calls for a fingering weight sock yarn, but I'm using all my scraps - including worsted weight.  There are a series of posts on my blog about adjusting the pattern to make hexipuffs of the same size from all different types of yarn.  These are modifications - you'll still need to buy a copy of the official pattern to make the quilt.  


The modifications are generally to (a) the number of stitches cast on, (b) the total number of stitches the puff reaches at its widest point, and (c) whether there are extra plain knit rows added to the ones specified by the pattern.  


This results in a hexipuff that is 3" in diameter (1.5" on each side).

Koigu Kersti Merino Crepe - Modifications
Cast on 9 sts per needle on US Size 3 (3.25mm) needles.
Increase to 19 sts per needle.
Decrease and bind off as usual.
No extra knit rows.

Hexipuffs: Bernat Baby Jacquards

Here is the recipe I used to make a hexipuff out of Bernat Baby Jacquards.  This yarn is a sport weight 100% acrylic that self-patterns.


What's a hexipuff?  It's a motif used in making The Beekeeper's Quilt.  The pattern calls for a fingering weight sock yarn, but I'm using all my scraps - including worsted weight.  There are a series of posts on my blog about adjusting the pattern to make hexipuffs of the same size from all different types of yarn.  These are modifications - you'll still need to buy a copy of the official pattern to make the quilt.  


The modifications are generally to (a) the number of stitches cast on, (b) the total number of stitches the puff reaches at its widest point, and (c) whether there are extra plain knit rows added to the ones specified by the pattern.  


This results in a hexipuff that is 3" in diameter (1.5" on each side).

Cast on 10 sts per needle on US size 3's.
Increase as described in pattern to 20 stitches per needle.
Decrease and bind off as described in pattern.

(No extra knit rows.)

Hexipuffs: Full O' Sheep by Debbie Stoller Stitch Nation

Co 8 sts per needle on size 3's, skip first plain knit row
Extra knit rows at 12 sts (top and bottom)
Inc to 16 (one less increase)